In the fall we went to the Dolomites in northern Italy to do the San Candido-Lienz bike route. It is a 46 KM bike path with a low grade downhill, through the most beautiful terrain of the Alps.
We drove Drive up to San Candido. We started north of Venice. The route has many panoramic views of tall mountains, thick pine forest, waterfalls, rock formations, rivers and lovely villages. Every place you pass in the mountains awakens a huge craving to stop and explore. It feels like you are missing on much just driving by through the towns. But if you want to make it to your destination it is fundamental to stay focused and not stop at cafes, pastry shops or gelaterias.
The villages of Sesto and Moso along the route are very cute. Located on great green prairies framed by the Dolomites, they are enchanting. They have their characteristic churches, buildings with bright flowered balconies, castles, mom and pop shops, antiques and they are located at or near ski slopes. The lifts are mostly dormant for the summer but some are still used as joy rides over the mountains or to reach the high prairies. The hotels look charming; many have German names due to the proximity of Austria.
San Candido is a bigger but equally cute town that is the start of the bike path. Park at one of the many free parking and you will see the lot full of cycling ready families with people of all ages eager to take on the trail, even little kids.
After a brief visit of the town center and some refreshments we took on the trail. Just follow the signs and soon you will be flying down the path flanked by those bright green alpine meadows. You pass several small villages, cross abridge and find yourself ridding by a river, surrounded by tall mountains, the rocky formations of the Dolomites, and the blue sky.
Then you go over several bridges changing banks around the river, intermittently riding through thick forests. People travel mainly in big family groups. Passing must be done with caution given kids tendency to snake on the path especially when you call their attention. But mostly there are large stretches of path when you are all alone and can go as fast as you want.
There are small restaurants along the way. Many people disorderly stop here and you must almost walk you bike through them. The food, wine, beer and coffee are very good. You do need to make these stops to refuel, or go to the bathroom given the length of the trip. Not far after them you are once again in one of the most beautiful bike paths in the world.
Eventually we made it to Lienz, checked out the town, went to the castle to have strudel and made it back to the train station just in time for the last bike train. The train has a especial bike section where all bikes are hunk in racks. The train is very pleasant particularly because it takes around 45 minutes to get back to San Candido and you get great satisfaction to realize you have gone that far on your bike.
Arrive back at the parking, drive down the mountain and stop along the route for dinner in one of the many restaurants. Enjoy the magic of a perfect Italian pizza and a glass of cold beer after a good workout.
Friday, February 20, 2009
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